How to Lay Laminate Flooring – Installation Guide

 

Laminate flooring is easy to install and needs no grout, mortar, or adhesives. Laminate flooring is not attached to the subfloor, and its installation is like putting together a large puzzle. It takes a day to install in a room.

Homeowners choose laminate floors over tile or hardwood because it is durable and simple.

Laminate flooring is durable and scratch-resistant. It resembles hardwood and is available in a variety of colors and designs. This beautiful material can be purchased at an affordable price.

Laminate floors are also easy to install on your own. Thus, it can save you money on hiring a professional.

Keep reading for a successful DIY laminate flooring installation.

Before you Start

Before installing laminate flooring, check the subfloor or old flooring surface. The subfloor must be flat, smooth, and clean. Laminate flooring can be installed over old floor coverings, but the surface should be flat, smooth, and not soft.

A foam sheeting is sufficient as a base for laminate plank flooring. If the surface has any damage or unevenness, you must remove it. Before laying foam sheets, lay down a rigid sheet of thin plywood.

Before installing, remove all the planking and trim around the room's border, heating resisters, or air return opening covers mounted on the floor. Sweep and vacuum the entire floor thoroughly.

Cut down some trim from the doorways, then cut the flooring materials to fit an irregular shape. Trimming allows your flooring to fit underneath for a smooth result.

Laminate Flooring Tools and Materials

Below are the tools needed to install laminate flooring.

·        Utility knife

·        Hammer

·        Tapping block

·        Rubber mallet

·        Tape measure

·        Speed square

·        Pencil

·        Circular saw

·        Straightedge

·        Table saw

·        Chalk box

·        Laminate flooring

·        Underlayment and tape

·        Scrap wood spacers

How to Lay Laminate Flooring – Installation Guide

1.    Test the Flooring Design

Test laminate planks to see how they will look in the room. It is easy to use the flooring itself rather than measuring and calculating for a small or medium-sized room. Put planks side by side across the room.

The side joints can also lock or arrange the planks against one another. Do not walk on the flooring if the joints are not locked together.

Now, arrange a length of planks end-to-end. Do not lock the planks together because it's difficult to undo. It may damage the edges. Once you understand the overall layout, pull up the planks and stack them nearby.

2.    Install the Underlayment

According to manufacturers, always put down underlayment before laying the laminate. Underlayment is a thin and dense foam layer. It helps absorb sound, provides a thermal barrier, and makes the floor easy to walk. It also helps the flooring overpass minor gaps and cracks in the undelaying floor.

Put the underlayment sheets in place and push the edges together so they are touching but do not overlap them. Manufacturers recommend sealing the seams with a tap. Some underlayments come with peel-and-stick adhesive edges. These edges are used to join the pieces.

Use a utility knife to trim the underlayment to fit against the walls and obstacles.

3.    Start the First Row of Planks

Trim off the tongues from the boards that will edge the first wall. This is easy to do with a sharp utility knife, a table saw, circular saw. Trim the edges of the planks against the wall and start laying the first row on the longest wall. Start on the right side and work to the left.

Put a full-size plank against the wall, spacing it about ¼ to 3/8 inch away from the wall. Make sure the groove edge faces out. Place scrap wood spacers between the flooring and the wall to keep this gap. Continue with additional full-length planks and work toward the left to the end of the room.

While working, lock pieces to each other using a hammer and a tapping block to tighten the joints. The end joints should be tight, with no gaps. Manufacturers suggest tapping the planks with a rubber mallet to close the end joints.

4.    Complete the First Row

The last plank will be long on reaching the left end of the first row. Measure the length as required and shift that measurement to a full-size plank. Measure length from the right to the left side, so that the tongue-end of the plank is preserved to attach to the last full plank. Consider the expansion gap at the wall.

Use a circular saw to cut the plank to the length. Keep in mind the cut-off end. This end will form the first plank in the second row, beginning back at the right side of the room. Fix the final cut piece into the first row of flooring. A pull bar is handy at the end of the row. 

5.    Outline the Next Rows

Working from right to left, the last piece in each row will always be cut off. The cut-off piece from the left shifting down to begin the next row of flooring on the right. The rows of laminate planks should have an appearance that seams never line up in adjacent rows. It will look unattractive, and the flooring will not be strong structurally.

Cut the lengths as short as 1 foot for a good stable and flat subfloor. If your first row leaves you with a very short-cut piece on the left end, its best to reconstruct the row. The new row should begin with a partial board on the right end. This will confirm that the cut plank on the left is an acceptable length.

6.    Continue Laying More Planks

Continue installing the planks for the second and upcoming rows using a similar but slightly different technique. Hold each piece at a 45-degree angle and insert the long tongue edge into the groove of the planks in the earlier row. Lower the piece flat to the floor to lock the joint.

Tap the piece into its neighbor in the same row with the hammer and tapping block.

7.    Install the Final Row

Mark planks in this last row for cutting but allow a ¼-inch expansion gap between the flooring and the wall. Cut the final row of planks using a circular saw. Install the last row of trimmed planks using the same tongue-and-groove fitting technique.

Even in tight spaces such as under a cabinet, you should still have enough area to angle the board up. In this way, you will get it into the locking position, removing all spacers after installation. Now, install baseboard molding along the room’s border. Hide the gaps along the walls by molding.

DIY laminate flooring vs. Professional laminate flooring

Both DIY flooring installation and hiring a professional have many advantages and disadvantages. Decide according to your budget and comfort with the floor installation kit. Floating floor installation or laminate flooring installation is not difficult. Most homeowners can do this easily.

Installing laminate flooring on your own will take a few hours but requires the right equipment. If you have not completed a home repair project before and do not have the necessary equipment, it would be better to hire a professional. They have all the materials and tools required for installation.

Laminate Flooring Installation Tips

1.    Floor manufacturers recommend installing moisture or barrier before laying flooring over a concrete surface or moisture-prone surface. A moisture barrier will protect the flooring from moisture. Many underlayment types are designed to serve as a moisture barrier. Thick plastic sheeting can also be installed, and seams should be sealed with tape to provide a moisture barrier.

2.    Snap a chalk line where the groove edge will be on the first row. Measure the line along the wall where the planks will start. Ensure the recommended gap and check that the re-installed base will cover the gap. The groove edge on the first row should be laid in a straight line.

3.    Mark the long cutting lines with a long straightedge. Use a speed square to mark lines for crosscuts.

Tips for Cutting Laminate Flooring

1.    The planks are very thin and you can cut them easily. The cut edges will be hidden when the baseboards and molding are installed, so it is unnecessary to cut them perfectly.

2.    Table saws produce the best cuts, but you can also use a circular saw, a jigsaw, or a handsaw. Fine-tooth saw blades produce better cuts with less chipping of the laminate surface. Jigsaw is best for notches, curves, and other custom cuts.

3.    Circular saws and jigsaws cut up through the material, so most chipping occurs on the top side of the plank. Cut from the backside of the plank to minimize chipping on the flooring surface.

Frequently Asked Question

Can you lay the laminate floor yourself?

You can easily lay DIY laminate floors in every room in your home, including kitchens. It does not have to be glued down and does not need grout or mortar. Planks can be cut with a hand saw, circular saw, or flooring cutter.

 

Do you have to lay laminate left to right?

Planks are always installed from left to right.

 

How many spacers do I need for laminate flooring?

Two spacers are required along the wall parallel to the long direction of your laminate flooring planks.

 

Does the tongue or groove go against the wall?

The tongue is the side you will want to place against the wall when starting your laminate flooring installation.

Our Verdict

Turn your floors into gorgeous laminate flooring by the DIY route. With the proper tools and the right installation, this guide will help you lay laminate flooring. The whole process can be quite easy and satisfying for many homeowners.

Give laminate flooring time to familiarize yourself before you start the installation. Allow sufficient expansion gap so that it does not crack up. A perfect installation is possible if you are well-familiar with the underlayment and moisture barriers.